Does Your Ring Need a Facelift?

Working with estate and antique jewelry often means days spent going back and forth with jewelers to determine how best to restore a piece, ensuring it can be worn for another 100 years. Recently, I had a tricky sale involving a uniquely beautiful Art Deco ring adorned with a lovely greyish-blue aquamarine that needed quite a facelift.

This particular piece caught my attention at a trade show. A sparkling 10-carat aquamarine at the center displayed a unique pattern of kite-shaped facets, deviating from the typical emerald cut. After closer inspection with my loupe, the condition of the ring was less than stellar.

The shank looked like it had been a dog’s chew toy, and the basket holding the stone had small fractures visible only at certain angles. Additionally, the prongs securing the stone required tightening. I sent the client a video and she was instantly attached to the piece despite knowing it would require quite a bit of work before she could wear it.

Even the most durable gemstones require care after years of wear. Diamonds, sapphires, and rubies often accumulate abrasions and scratches along their facet junctions and tables, while emeralds can gradually lose their oil over time. Gold and platinum, too, become scratched and may lose their luster with prolonged wear. The good news, however, is that these issues are fixable with the help of a skilled jeweler or lapidary.

It’s surprising when people expect antique jewelry to be found in flawless condition. Like anything worn regularly, wear and tear is possible and luxury goods require a little extra work to maintain their shine. Rings and bracelets typically exhibit the highest levels of visible wear, while earrings and necklaces often remain in relatively good condition. Reputable dealers or jewelers should inform customers of the costs and time involved in refurbishing a piece but highlight that it is truly special to own a piece that has been cherished over time.

Despite the effort required, I firmly believe that the finest gemstones, craftsmanship, and stories come from antique jewelry.

After spending a few weeks with the jeweler, I picked up the finished ring and was amazed at how much better it looked. The client was thrilled that we had addressed all the faults and restored the setting to maintain the ring’s original style. She can now wear her ring as much as she pleases knowing it won’t disintegrate on her finger.